Today’s modern hunter is more equipped than ever to handle the great outdoors and we all know there’s a lot more to hunting than just going out to the wilderness with a gun and some bullets. Especially if the sportsman is going for a number of days, he’ll need to carry food, water, additional ammunition, compass, etc. This is where the hunters backpack comes into play, specifically the Badlands 2200. You’d be surprised how many hunters there are in the world that go out in the field with nothing but a flimsy nylon backpack with shoulder straps that would barely fit and they only hold enough space for a canteen and some TP! At the end of a hunt it would feel like your arms were going to fall off because the straps had cut off most of the blood going to your extremities, NO MORE. Because there are so many reviews out there for hunting backpacks, which one do you pick? I am not necessarily trying to promote a particular brand, but the Badlands 2200 is a damn good pack! And oh man how a good quality pack makes a huge difference in your day in the field. When looking at the Badlands 2200, these were of course some main factors that I kept in mind when considering the ‘utmost’ in hunting backpacks and gear.

1. Comfortable shoulder straps, a chest strap, and hip belt: I can’t say enough about having these components on your backpack. With these elements in line, the sportsman can pretty much wear their pack all day – especially when you’re up and down and walking most of the day, you still feel fresh.

2. Lots of exterior pockets: I literally cannot vouch for anyone else, but the consensus is that their needs to be a place of easy access to put all of your extra ammunition, food, knives, and of course the necessary important TP.

3. Durability: Able to carry a huge load of meat out of the back country. Load bearing has much importance to hunters when looking at backpacks. Especially, if I am a few miles deep in the wilderness. With that said – I need a backpack that has durability when hauling a huge carcass back to camp.

4. A pack that is 2200 cubic inches. Since the majority of hunters are big guys – now I’m not trying to stereo type here, but there was a study that found that the average hunter is male, usually on average a height of 6ft and 260 lbs. With that being said, the backpack has to have the size that can be worn over a fleece or sweater.

After so much research within the marketplace, the Badlands 2200 is the best option that I have seen and it meets the majority of my criteria. It is 2200 cubic inches, the hip belt and shoulder straps are molded to fit the contour of the hunter’s body. The pack has exterior pockets and you can carry this backpack for miles without any problems and this pack is great for both the beginning hunter and the experienced sportsman. I know that there are several other great brands out there such as Eberstock and Kifaru to name a couple, however the Badlands 2200 backpack is a really great product and an integral piece of hunting gear for the successful sportsman.

By: Bill, Randle

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Concentration and attention to detail are very important factors in producing quality reloaded pistol ammunition. A sturdy and organized table to mount your equipment will also make for a better end product. An updated reloading manual is needed to reference proper powder charge, bullet weight, and bullet seating depth. I will be using a single stage press on this how to. In later articles, I will go through using a progressive press.

After properly mounting your press and organizing work your table, you are ready to begin. I will start with the 45 ACP. It is a common and easy round to reload. If you had shot and saved your brass, often referred to as range brass or once fired brass, they will have to be processed. Reusing your once fired brass is a cost effective way of reloading that most reloaders will do. I highly recommend using your own fired brass because you can attest to the condition that they are in. If you picked up other people’s brass, thoroughly check the condition that they are in. Processing brass is discussed later, which involves cleaning, deburing, sizing, de-priming and on occasion, trimming to length. Newly purchased brass, which can be quite expensive, is ready for powder, primer and a bullet.

Clean brass is important. You can clean them with a vibratory tumbler filled with crushed walnut shells or corncob. These can be found at your local gun stores or feed stores. Inspect each casing for damage, at the same time debur the neck. Lightly rotate the deburing tool inside and out of the neck of the casing. Damaged, questionable, inconsistent, or imperfect cases should be recycled at your local recycling center. These cases should NOT be used. It will cause injury, damage to your firearm, and is not worth the pennies that you will save.

Most die sets will combine sizing and de-priming in one step. Insert the proper shell holder and sizing die. If you are using a carbide sizing die no lubrication is needed. If not, roll the casings lightly across a lube pad and insert into the shell holder. Actuate the press one full cycle and you have now resized and de-primed. Next, measure the over all length of the casing with a caliper and compare it to the specifications in your reloading book. Trim the casing to the proper length with the case trimmer if needed.

Range brass will often times need their primer pockets cleaned. To do this, you need a primer pocket tool, a couple of rotations inside the pocket and its done. Inspect the flash hole for any obstructions. Sometimes cleaning media will lodge in the flash hole. Poke a small wire or tooth-pick to remove any obstruction. Since we are loading for the 45 ACP, you will need to use Large Pistol Primers (LPP). Smaller calibers will require Small Pistol Primers (SPP). Insert your brass into the shell holder, press firmly to seat the primer in the pocket. Run your finger across the bottom of the casing. A properly seated primer should be flush or deeper that the bottom rim.

Look in the reloading book for 45 ACP. Find the weight of the bullet, in lead or jacketed, that you will be using. Next look under the type of powder you are using and cross reference the two. You will notice powder charge listed in grains. The amount in grains will dictate the speed the bullet will travel and the pressure that your firearm will incur. Lead bullets will lead up your barrel if you push it too fast, where as jacketed bullets will produce lighter leading in the barrel. Use a powder measure to obtain the charge you want, check it with a scale or weigh each charge and pour the powder into each primed casing.

Before seating each bullet, look at the tray of charged casings. The powder level should all be the same. At the same time you are looking for missed or double charged casings. If this is done, just redo that charge. Now you are ready to seat the bullet. Install the bullet seating die. Set the bullet into the bell of the casing and slowly seat the bullet a little. Measure the total length and refer to the load manual for maximum bullet length. Make slow adjustment until the desired length is obtained.

After your tray of bullets are complete, inspect each round for over all length. This measurement should not exceed what is recommended in your reloading book. You will get faster the more you do and learn the short cuts. The main thing is to pay attention to what you are doing and you will enjoy shooting your own rounds.

By: Tim Buck

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If you have been reloading for a long time, you have probably made mistakes. Most of the time those mistakes were not disastrous, but inconvenient. An example would be seating a rifle bullet beyond the specifications on your reloading book. At which case, you would only have to take the bullet out, check your bullet seating die, and seat the bullet to its proper depth.

Reloading as a hobby and as a business deal with potentially dangerous materials. Our cartridges can create very high pressures for being such a small object. Most accidents that occur can be traced back to making mistakes at your reloading bench or at the range.

Over pressured rounds can potentially kill you and at the bare minimum, destroy your firearm. Some signs of over pressure can be bulges in the case or primer separation. Being in a hurry to get to the range and shoot is not an acceptable reason to be careless with your reloading procedures. As simple as switching from slow burning powder to fast burning powder with the same charge can be lethal.

When testing your reloaded ammunition, stopping after the shot seems odd should be a general rule and common sense. Another one that should be is if doesn’t feel right, stop. A good of example of this was a session I had at the range. I had finished reloading 180 grain, lead, round nose, flat point bullets from my 40 S&W. I didn’t realize that one of my reloads was under powdered. When I shot this round, it all seemed “normal.” When the case ejected and the next round was being seated, the slide would not close all the way. The lead bullet had gotten stuck in the chamber and the next round could not seat in properly. Had I forced this round through could have been disastrous to me and my firearm. Luckily, I had stopped to troubleshoot why the round would not chamber and only after disassembling the firearm had I noticed that the barrel had a bullet stuck, or a “squib.” I hammered the bullet out and went home to check my ammunition.

Most mistakes are not made only at the reloading bench, but when testing your reloaded ammunition at the range. Careful scrutiny is needed on what is normal versus what is abnormal. This also includes reading what your cartridge is telling you., such as bulged cases, blown primers, extruded cases when they shouldn’t, etc. Inspecting each case as you shoot each round is safer than not checking them at all. It’s better to err in safety rather than find the consequences due to a lack of attention to detail.

By: Tim Buck

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With ammunition price sky rocketing and the availability declining, reloading ammunition can be a cost effective and satisfying venture to go into.

What are the associated costs to reloading. First, you have to ask yourself, if you are reloading to plink or play at the range, reloading for competition, or reloading for hunting. Each of the three is unique in how you will load for your rifle. I’ll tackle this matter by giving you a general formula and cross-reference the associated costs of standard factory ammo.

Reloading press prices will vary from $25 – $1500. This is your first determining factor. If you are a new reloader, I would highly recommend purchasing a single stage press. Lee makes an affordable entry press to learn on. Progressive presses produce more ammunition than single stage presses and are much more expensive.

Reloading dies will also vary based on whether you will be shooting a bolt or semi-automatic rifle. These will range from $20 – $100. You can choose from competition dies, carbide dies, or just plain standard dies. Some of these will come in two die or three die sets. More dies usually mean more money. It also means that you are not sacrificing the quality of your rounds by distributing tasks performed to other dies, rather than having multipurpose dies.

Accessories that you will also incur will be case tumblers and tumbler media, case trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, calipers, reloading book, scales, powder measure, and an area to work in. You can purchase complete reloading kits with all of the following already included in the specific caliber you want to shoot. Often times this is the most cost-effective way to go.

So, here’s what you’ve been waiting for, the math to justify it all:

(Cost of equipment) + (Cost of components) = Initial Cost

(Initial Cost) / (# of rounds to produce) = initial cost per round

2nd batch (Cost of components) / (# of rounds to produce) = cost per round*

(Price per round of factory ammo) – (Cost per round) = savings

(Initial Cost) / (Savings) = break even point

Purchasing in bulk quantities is where you will gain the most advantage. Purchasing 5000 primers instead of 100 or 8lbs of powder with several of your friends and split the hazardous material fee will go a long way to putting more money into your pocket and longer time at the range.

* excludes the cost of reusing brass

By: Tim Buck

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For most of us, bowhunting is much more than harvesting an animal. Many of us started out as rifle hunters; and while we still anticipate and enjoy our rifle hunts, it is bowhunting that captures our greatest emotions. Why do we bowhunt? Why do we get so much out of our sport when the success rate is far below that of rifle hunting?

Why do we plan, prepare, and purchase for our bowhunts with such enthusiasm? For this hunter it is the whole experience that provides such anticipation prior to the hunt and the warmest emotions following it. Why bowhunting; because it provides us a chance to enjoy our friends and family away from civilization. The camp becomes the center of the hunt. It is our opportunity to create our own space in the wild and return to some ancestral existence. The camp is our home in the field. In this modern society filled with external electronic stimulation, our camp provides us the internal stimulation we require to stay human. We all look forward to the sharing of stories from the day’s hunt.

We are allowed into, and get to share in the powerful experience of our hunt partners. Those shared experiences become etched in our emotions and increase our anticipation for the next hunt. It is as much a part of the hunt as the actual hunting. I am still amazed how my heart leaps at the sight of the camp at the end of a long day’s hunt. No matter how crude, it still feels as inviting as any home I’ve owned. I know I’ll feel safety, warmth and fellowship; it is why we bowhunt. Bowhunting, more than any other outdoor experience, offers us the opportunity to become a part of the wild region that we temporarily inhabit. Be it a tree stand, blind or some naturally occurring vantage point, our goal is to become a part of the surroundings. We camouflage our bodies and mask our scent in order to become an indistinguishable part of the native flora and fauna. We test our ability to sit totally silent for long periods of time or stalk with stealth like silence.

And when the moment comes that we happen to find ourselves at full draw with our prey in our sights, it tests our ability to control our emotions in order to complete the shot. Bowhunting provides us the greatest natural “rush” possible. To be within yards of wild animals of all types makes our hearts leap. To be that close and have them not know we are there doubles the excitement. Even when we head back to our daily lives empty handed we are still filled with an abundance of emotionally charged experiences that continually nurture us. We are forced to live our lives in the civilized world to support our families and lifestyles but bowhunting provides us the opportunity to escape the “real” world and nourish our mental and emotional lives! Although the bow and arrow have become more technologically advanced, it is still an archaic method of hunting; flinging a projectile whose speed and accuracy are reliant upon the strength and steadiness of the archer.

By its very nature, bowhunting allows the hunter the opportunity to step back in time and forces him to rely on his hunter/gatherer nature. As a bowhunter I feel a little more vulnerable than I do when I rifle hunt. I am far more dependent upon my skills for my success and safety. That vulnerability is what makes the bowhunter appreciate the vastness and power of the natural world. The bowhunter, in the field, gets a sense of how small, yet connected, he is to his surroundings. In much the same way a surfer feels about the ocean waves, or a mountain climber about his ascent, the bowhunter respects his surroundings, and cannot wait until the next time he’s allowed the opportunity to revive his spirit and refresh his soul; this is why we bowhunt.

By: Paul Keegan

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Refractor spotting scopes have two body designs: straight and angled. A lot of people prefer the straight design where the eyepieces are aligned with each other. The eyepiece in an angled scope however is placed 45 degrees or 90 degrees from the barrel.

Straight scopes are considered more convenient to use. To follow birds, straight scopes can even be positioned on a car window. In an elevated position, they are also much easier to use. But some people might prefer the angled design. The choice is really dependent on how one will use the scope.

The fundamental differences between a straight and an angled scope are as follows:

When using straight scopes, the subject is aligned with your eyes whereas in an angled design, this is not the case. You can do bird watching at different levels and angles using an angled scope. With straight scopes, the lens needs adjustments to adjust to varying heights.

There are situations where you have to kneel down with a straight scope. This is not necessary with an angled scope because you just have to turn your head a little. For a better and stable view, an angled design can have a lower mount. It’s also possible to mount them on a lightweight tripod. But with straight scopes, the mounting should be done at eye level. These scopes are ideal for birding from cars because they can be conveniently placed on a car’s window. Angled scopes are more versatile which is why some people choose to use them. But personally, I recommend scopes that are light and easy to handle so you won’t have a hard time carrying it around.

As always, you should weigh all your options first before buying. Be sure you’ll get the most value for your money. Leupold and Zeiss are the best but if you can’t afford them, settle for a Nikon or Tasco instead. Think of your purchase as an investment. As I’ve stated before, accessories and added equipments abound, but consider your needs first before acquiring any. A tripod is a vital accessory because it provides more stability and sturdiness. Be sure to spare some money to buy a good quality tripod.

By: Joshua Belden

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Quail hunting is a unique sport. Due to the distinctive intelligence of quails, it takes a technique that isn’t usually seen in other types of hunting. If you are fond of hunting that involves an extraordinary amount of stealth and cunning, quail hunting may be perfect for you.

Quail is considered a delicacy across the country. Their eggs are also used in high cuisine. Quail are particularly unique in that, unlike ducks, geese, or chicken, you don’t need to remove or eat around the bones; they are small and soft enough that you can swallow them without harm. However, due to their small size, you typically need several to make a meal.

Others engage in quail hunting for the trophies. Quails of all species are known for their petite sizes and gorgeous array of colorful feathers, from dappled browns to flashes of muted blues and grays. For this reason, many choose to have their quails stuffed and put on display.

Quail hunting can be enjoyed alone or with a partner. While not necessary, most hunters also include a quality bird dog on their excursions. Not only do these dogs quietly point, signaling ahead of time where a covey is hiding, but they can also be useful for flushing birds into flight and retrieving any kills. Ideally, a retrieving dog should handle the bird gently and allow you to take it from them without resistance. Sometimes it’s possible to rent good birding dogs if you don’t have the time to train your own.

However, when it comes to quail hunting, it’s important to keep in practice. Tension runs high during this type of hunting, requiring an innate knowledge of your gun, your fellow hunters, and your birding dog. To avoid friendly fire, shooting skeet is a good way to grow accustomed to the unique style of waiting and shooting. Learning basic gun safety, such as how to position yourselves throughout a hunting session to avoid accidental shooting, is also a must for beginning hunters.

If you’d rather enjoy a bit of luxury with your quail hunting, guided hunting tours are available across the country. Guided hunting is a great way to spend a three day weekend or short vacation. Essentially, trained experts hunt with you in designated areas. Once you’re through with your fun, you get to return to a private cabin or camping areas to enjoy meals, talks, and more.

By: Tom McFay

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Airsoft and paintball are pretty similar sports, and they can be played exactly the same way. There are a few key differences, such as that airsoft is used more in military and law enforcement reenactments than paintball. In this sense, gameplay can differ, but people use paintball guns for reenactments as well (just not as often). If you look at the big picture, the games aren’t that different, but sometimes strategy and tactics must be changed depending on the specs of your and your opponent’s gun.

The guns used in airsoft and paintball differ greatly. Paintball guns have a hopper that you pour paintballs into, while airsoft guns use clips. Therefore, loading and unloading is usually easier in airsoft, as is carrying around extra clips. In paintball, you need to have a vest or belt to put large cylinders of paintballs into. That doesn’t mean that airsoft has paintball trumped in this category. Paintball guns can usually carry more ammo than an airsoft gun, and you can still reload relatively quickly.

Ammunition; paintballs in paintball, 6mm BBs in airsoft. This is an important thing to consider. In a forest, there are many tiny branches that can break paintballs, thus stopping them from reaching their target. You have to find a very open area without any obstructions. Airsoft pellets are very small and the likelihood of them hitting tiny obstacles is miniscule. Also, in many cases they can be more accurate than paintballs, so it may not take as much time for a game to end as it might with paintball. The speed, in FPS, of airsoft is also usually higher (between 300fps and 400fps). It can be as low as 120fps, but that isn’t very efficient in an airsoft game. Paintballs can also be dodged; it doesn’t happen often, but if you see one coming toward you in advance it is easy to move out of the way. Airsoft pellets are too small to see at a high-speed, and dodging is basically out of the question. Therefore, overall, in the case of ammunition, airsoft has the advantage.

The next item on the list is maneuverability. Airsoft guns are definitely easy to hold and run with, while with paintball there are big and bulky external CO

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