Terraces present wonderful possibilities in the garden. They are outdoor living rooms during good weather and form a transition from the outdoors to the indoors throughout the year.

The terrace may be either at ground level, below ground level, or raised above it. The simplest type is ground level, which requires only the grading we have indicated. There is a wide choice of flooring materials to use. One may use cement, poured and levelled with a large board, but in maintaining the drainage grade or including shallow drainage paths, smooth turf may be used, in which case the preparation will be the same as for other lawn areas and various other types of bases.

The use of flagstones is made simple by applying a load of sand or gravel to the subsoil and digging the flagstones into the sand or gravel. The niches between the stones can be dug out and filled with top-soil and grass or other cover planted between them. This gives a very pleasing effect.

Hollow clay building tiles can be split and laid as units in the terrace floor, their rough edges in the soil. Another good surfacing material is “exposed aggregate,” which is free from glare because of its rough finish. For this type of surface, build a form of 2 x 4’s. Pour the flooring in squares, one square at a time, and level with a straight board. The material used is a mixture of cement, sharp sand and crushed rock or pebbles.

Redwood or cypress blocks may also be used for terrace floors and are very attractive, although somewhat less durable than stone or brick. You can buy the blocks cut to size and lay them directly in a bed of sand, which in turn has been laid on compacted gravel or cinder. Un-mortared brick, laid in a pattern, on 2 to 4 inches of well-tamped sand, with loose sand in the crevices for grass, makes a hardy and simple-to-construct terrace floor. The bricks may be laid flat or on end, and to keep them from spreading, drive an angle iron against the corners. Use a pattern that follows the lines of your terrace.

The Sunken Terrace Gardening

A sunken terrace is one which is below ground level. It can be very attractive, and it does give a feeling of coolness on a humid day or a hot night. The sunken terrace requires a retaining wall to prevent soil from continually eroding into it, and also to maintain the topsoil of the surrounding garden. The subsoil must be dug to a depth of about 5 or 6 inches below the level you wish to attain with the terrace itself. The use of sand or gravel as a base is of importance. The top treatment can follow your own dictates.

The Raised Terrace Gardening

The raised terrace is generally not fully raised, but starts at the house level and is raised at its outer edge. Again, a retaining wall is called for. The principle problem with the raised terrace is levelling. Once this is accomplished, and the retaining wall built, construction follows the same procedure as in any other case. Drainage is supplied either by a central drain, going into a tile line, or by underground piping through the retaining wall.

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Aeroponic gardening is quickly gaining popularity among indoor gardeners.  Preferred for the protection it offers against disease and pest infestation, this variation of hydroponics gardening is ideal for anyone seeking to cultivate organic produce.  In order to create such growing conditions, however, very specific equipment is needed.  While there are some similarities between hydroponic supplies, and those used for aeroponic gardening, there are significant differences.  The source of the differences is a result of manner in which plants are cultivated.

About aeroponics

Interestingly, this form of plant cultivation does not require any sort of growing medium. Instead, the plants’ entire root system is exposed within a heavily misted environment.  This mist is not basic water alone; rather it is supplemented with a rich supply of nutrients.  The roots easily absorb this food supply and transfer it throughout the entire plant structure.

About aeroponic cloning

While typical hydroponics systems may be used for virtually any stage of plant growth, aeroponics works best for a specific type of cultivation.  Because the root system drives this form of gardening, the greatest success is possible when working from plant cuttings.  In a nutshell, new plants are generated from a single source plant in a process known as aeroponic cloning.  For the best results, cuttings should be taken below the second node of a healthy plant.  They are then transferred into an aeroponic system known as an aeroponic cloner.

The basics of aeroponics systems

In order to contain the nutrient-rich mist upon which successful aeroponic gardening depends, a totally or partially closed environment is needed.  While there are design variations between aeroponics cloner systems, as is the case with hydroponic supplies, the basic components are the same from model to model.

Systems for aeroponic cloning all feature some sort of chamber or reservoir.  This component contains the plants and provides the environment in which the cultivation occurs. In addition, some sort of pumping mechanism is required in an aeroponic cloner.  This device ensures the plants are exposed to an evenly distributed supply of liquid and nutrients.  As a result, the entire crop is more likely to grow at a consistent rate.  The final necessity in an aeroponics gardening system is a timer.  It guarantees that the nutrient rich environment remains consistent during the entire cultivation cycle.

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To many people the idea of growing plants is a crazy concept. Hydroponic gardening has been around for thousands of years and many small farms have begun to embrace this method of gardening. In its simplest form, hydroponic gardening can be envisioned as a plant stuck through the top of a glass canning jar with its roots covered with fertilized water. Despite how simple a hydroponic garden setup can be, there are many ways in which you can accomplish the same task, it all depends on the size of your hydroponic setup.

Here are some example methods of a hydroponic setup:

1) Static – In a static hydroponic setup the plants are grown in a container of nutrient solution this setup is most common in homes were the plants can be grown in glass jars with just enough of the root outside of the solution so it can get oxygen.

2) In its simplest form, there is a tray above a reservoir of nutrient solution. The tray is either filled with growing medium (clay granules being the most common) and planted directly, or pots of medium stand in the tray. At regular intervals, a simple timer causes a pump to fill the upper tray with nutrient solution, after which the solution drains back down into the reservoir. This keeps the medium regularly flushed with nutrients and air.

3)In continuous flow solution culture the nutrient solution constantly flows past the roots. It is much harder to automate than the static solution culture because sampling and adjustments to degree and nutrient concentrations can be made in a large storage tank that serves potentially thousands of plants.

In traditional gardening, the soil works as a storage reservoir for all the fertilization needed by the plants. The soil holds in the nutrients, releasing them to the roots as needed while in hydroponic gardening the hairs of the plant’s roots can sip at the nutrient rich water at any time they need something to eat.

Healthier, Larger Fruit Produced In Hydroponic Gardens

When plants are growing in soil, the roots typically grow larger than on plants in hydroponic gardening. This allows the part of the plant above the soil, or in this case, out of the water, to grow larger and the fruit it bears to grow bigger. Most plants grown through hydroponic gardening are larger, bear more fruit and have a better taste and texture than the same plants grown with tradition gardening methods.

Here are some examples of the mediums that are used in a hydroponic garden:

1)Expanded Clay – Also known as ‘Hydroton’ or ‘leca’ (light expanded clay aggregate), trademarked names, these small, round baked spheres of clay are inert and are suitable for hydroponic systems in which all nutrients are carefully controlled in water solution. The clay pellet is also inert, pH neutral and do not contain any nutrient value.

2) Rockwool – Is probably the most widely used medium in hydroponics. Made from basalt rock it is heat-treated at high temperatures then spun back together like candy floss. It comes in lots of different forms including cubes, blocks, slabs and granulated or flock.

3) Coir – Coco peat, also known as coir or coco, is the leftover material after the fibres have been removed from the outermost shell (bolster) of the coconut. It took 10 centuries to make this waste a viable plant substrate. The first description of the coco process dates from the 11th century and was recorded by Arabian traders. In 1290, Marco Polo described the process of extracting fibres from coconuts. For centuries, this process remained unchanged. Coco peat was a waste product from factories that used coco fibre as a raw material for making sailing ropes, chair seats and mattress fillings.

With static immersion, the roots are below the water level on a constant basis, with the water changed about once a week to maintain fertility in the hydroponic gardening. With continuous flow, the water is constantly changed in the growing tank, with fresh nutrients continually available to plant roots and with ebb and flow, fresh water is supplied to the growing tank where it slowly drips away into a reservoir from which it is recycled back to the growing tank.

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